In many, but certainly not all cases, a bracket of 0, -2 and +2 is a good range. Then you want a shot that is overexposed enough to place your shadows clearly in the midtones, and an underexposed shot to place your highlights in the midtones. You still want to get your most important part of your scene exposed slightly above middle grey in your primary or starter shot. The best practice is not to just blaze away with auto bracketing turned on. If your camera is older, go for more images. The general consensus with dedicated HDR software is that three images tend to be optimal with modern cameras. While some products claim to do HDR from a single image (it’s really just pulling highlights and pushing shadows and playing with contrast) some, like Lightroom’s built in HDR can do the job with as little as two images, one underexposed and one overexposed. As sensor dynamic range has improved, newer sensors produce images with higher dynamic range and we need fewer images to achieve our goals. One of the reasons that HDR fell out of favour is that in the early days, you really did need 5 or more images to get enough data for the software to work well. HDR or High Dynamic Range is a technique that melds multiple images together to pull more detail out of the shadows and highlights by pulling data from over and underexposed images and binding them together in one. To this end, the use of HDR as a creative process has fallen off a bit in the last couple of years, and with the availability of good HDR tools, it may be a good time to rethink this. Still cannot figure that one out, but hey, to each his or her own. Some people have even taken to doing their HDRs in camera. For most of us, the bad old days of overcooked, nuclear waste looking HDRs are over.
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